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There are two trains of thought here and it comes down to which is more important, reach or throat depth. With the fixed C-beam/moveable gantry...
For those who don't have the corner blocks on hand they could easily be replaced with a third 80mm length of 20x20 with a couple 1/4" horizonal...
Actually it's just a full size Ox. You can always build it smaller if you wish. If you're looking for something simpler you might scan through...
RONIN OX | The G10/Carbon Fiber Hogger provides the answer you seek.
The limited strength and rigidity of the Acro system makes it unsuitable for any reasonable level of CNC routing. You might get away with etching...
Nothing against beginners here so ask away. Just don't assume there will always be someone johnny-on-the-spot with a quick fire answer. Patience...
I would recommend using a pair of these in combination with a full extension drawer slide. Set the actuators behind the picture near the side...
Umm... they're in post #6.
No, this is not normal. Xtreme wheels should be far more durable. Photos would be helpful in working through this.
Post away. About the only thing that is off limits is mystery vendors claiming to be selling "genuine" OpenBuilds parts that really aren't...
All that matters is that it has a good firm grip. If the screw doesn't rotate in the coupler or pull out that's all that matters.
I would probably go with the C-Beam® Gantry Plate - Double Wide plates with 8 mini V-wheels each on the Z-axis. That'll give you the best...
The main reason for a double Z-axis is that is achieves a balance between rigidity and usable throat depth. The problem with most systems starts...
That is to make assembly go smoother. With full/true size rods it extremely difficult to fit the bearings on the screws and then slide them back...
As there are any of a number of ways to power dual drive systems with belts it's generally best to describe what you specifically have in mind to...
If you begin and end the drive belts at the drive plate you won't need to splice them. [ATTACH]
Scotty, that's way too easy. How about something a little more substantial.... The Official OpenBuilds Coffee Cup Lifter [ATTACH] Actually...
(4) 10mm or 12mm screws into the front side (2 each side). Extend screws through the smooth holes in the Z-axis plate and into the threaded holes...
Need parameters defined a little better: What is the distance from the countertop (or other base elevation) to the bottom of the raised cup? Any...
As long as your Y-axis drive stays inline with the bit above you really don't need another drive. It would be simpler just to add outriggers....