Welcome to Our Community

Some features disabled for guests. Register Today.

OpenBuilds LEAD CNC

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by MaryD, Nov 20, 2018.

  1. tjmitchem

    tjmitchem New
    Builder

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2023
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    1
    Sounds simple enough :)
     
  2. Rick 2.0

    Rick 2.0 OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Builder Resident Builder

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2013
    Messages:
    2,892
    Likes Received:
    1,549
    You really don't need to adapt the existing kit as the 1515 has most of the parts you need. All you really need to is replace existing parts with longer 20x80 risers at the ends of the X-gantry and a longer Z-axis C-beam and longer lead screw. 500mm on each should be sufficient. You may also need to increase wiring but if you're building from scratch there should be a sufficient amount included.

    If you haven't bought the 1515 yet, contact the shop and they'll probably include the parts as replacements for a minor upcharge.
     
    tjmitchem likes this.
  3. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Builder Resident Builder

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2017
    Messages:
    14,867
    Likes Received:
    4,283
    See post #22 at OpenBuilds LEAD CNC Machine 1515 (60" x 60") for the official lead1515 high z bom. If you contact the store via Support > New Ticket they can put an order together for you with the swaps
     
  4. Justin Edmands

    Builder

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2023
    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Doing a dump of Q's / Updates and I am probably about 200-300 ? hours on Lead 1515 now.

    I have had lots of good quality things come from the machine for building van interior camper parts. I think it's a good companion for these type of thing. Anyways...after lots of use I am thinking it's time to upgrade the wheels (little bit dented on the edges/some wheels cant be tightened)

    Issues came up with the Blackbox and OpenBuilds sent a replacement while in warranty. Thank you for that. Recently the Aux cable must has gotten damaged so my spare aux cable came in handy. I think the BlackBox Aux cable should not use an internal style connector on the outside of a handheld unit. The idea is that you use this as a handheld controller and flex/support at the connector port may be nice.

    Of course, over hundreds of hours, I had had some collisions with material and/or mech problems like one of the Y motors deciding to take some time off the job so only one of them moves making super awesome noises while the machine mangles itself.

    my machine sounds a little funny after the router bit collided with the workpiece (ply was warped upwards. I forgot about it :| )
    It's only on the X axis. I think the little block that the screw glides through may have gotten a little wonky. Should I get the anti backlash as an upgrade? or is that unrelated? What would like make some rotational grind-y noises for the X? If I were to take the X off, replace some wheels, re build the whole X, what would you all recommend for replacement at that time as part of doing this?
     
  5. Peter Van Der Walt

    Peter Van Der Walt OpenBuilds Team
    Staff Member Moderator Builder Resident Builder

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2017
    Messages:
    14,867
    Likes Received:
    4,283
    Use the cable tie slots provided on the back panel, couple slots near every cable input, allows you to cable tie the cable for a little extra support

    If its that much run hours, its probably still BlackBox 4X and older Interface?, you should also checkout the new stuff (X32 with V1.8 upwards Interfaces) - newer gen uses RJ12 curly cable these days docs:interface:connect-blackbox-x32 [OpenBuilds Documentation]


    They are a long term consumable, worn in tracks means its time to replace yes


    Probably unrelated, and don't change the nut design. Dual single blocks spaced apart is better than an antibacklash block on long screws - still "anti backlash" - you slide them in their mountings to cancel out backlash then tighten them to the plate - but they support screw in two spots some distance apart - better for whipping than a single anti-backlash block - thats more for short actuators like a Z axis


    Damaged bearings? Close up inspection required. Running fine other than the noise (if it also loses position, it could be motor wire break)

    Wear wise, just wheels usually. Rest, based on inspection. If something broke, replace it.

    I would also recommend checking all wiring still good, all the joints that move back and forth a lot do get some work hardening in the conductors, and can develop breaks.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice