Hello all, Spent the last year looking at CNC machines. I do a lot of wood working and carving in various woods and wanted the ability to put words onto stuff as well as possibly rough out my carvings (fish) a little more repeatably. I also wanted to be able to cut down on my table saw work and increase my accuracy when building guitar pedal boards in 3/4 birch. Spent a ton of time looking and researching and was decided on the Shapeoko Pro XXL (need at least 30x24 for pedal boards), but got sick of waiting on them to come back in stock, only to add them to my cart and have them sold out before I could purchase. Found the Lead 1010 after loosing the most recent round of this game and purchased it, along with two bit sets, VCarve Desktop (for now) and, hopefully, all the things to get it up and running. Forgot to add an XYZ probe however. So the question is... what is everyone doing for tables? My thinking is 4x4 uprights, jointed and planed square, and a framework of either 2x4 or 2x6s. Leaning towards a melamine top as it tends to move around less than MDF while looking better than ply. I’ll probably throw casters on the legs and get them to a 30-32” height, though I’m slightly concerned about it dancing around a bit. 48”x48” is probably where I’ll end up size-wise. Anything I need to look out for or things people wish they’d done differently? Storage isn’t a huge concern as I have a 7’x4’ outfeed table with built-in cabinets at the table saw, plus plans for future cabinetry along a 20’ wall that currently houses my mitre saw station and workbenches. Couldn’t find any specific table posts in the forum.
It's for a heavier and faster machine than a LEAD, but I also don't believe in "too heavy" for benches: (From: M4: 1510SS Heavy Mk.I )
If you need something a little lighter duty than Rob's. Ultimately, it depends on what you want to spend, how much work you want to put in, and what tools you have. (From: KRE Mill V3) < That's just me messing with Rob XD.
Is there enough space on the 1515 table to fit a case around the lead 1515, the case resting on the edges of the table?
Ha! This is a nice design- I've added more lower framing to mine in the meantime too, don't want it racking- though I'd want to add a lot more weight. 2x4s are pretty light and can be fairly resonant, which doesn't play nice with steppers. Rigidity is always good, but with moving parts you also want mass and damping. Tying the machine to the table, you want a poor power transfer by significantly different inertial masses, but also don't want reflections back into the machine, hence the damping. Fir studs "ding" a lot more when you hit them, vs. Southern Yellow Pine's nice dull "thud". And I quoted the exact post it came from, because there were more pictures to look at if OP was interested, so nyehhh. You kid, but I've seen extensions sitting on 2x6s!
My bathroom has bigger beams.. bathroom sits on 2x12's which was conveniant when I replaced the old tub with a giant one that is big enough to dissolve 3 adult bodies in... I mean a 6f + person can sit comfortable in (30" of water drain to overflow). That aside.. I have been using 2 3/4" MDF sheets sitting on top of metal saw horses... probably not the best.. but works in the interim (and by interim.. forever at the rate I get things done)
