Welcome to Our Community

Some features disabled for guests. Register Today.

Kyo
Joined:
Feb 27, 2014
Messages:
673
Likes Received:
702
Trophy Points:
93
Gallery:
19
Albums:
4
Resources:
8
Home Page:
Location:
WA, U.S.A
Occupation:
Content Creator

Share This Page

Kyo

Veteran, from WA, U.S.A

Staff Member Builder Resident Builder

Back in the shop ! Gearing up for a new build :) Nov 5, 2018

    1. Srednasoft
      Srednasoft
      Hi Kyo,
      Is it possible to have a copy of the drawings for the large gantry plates for the Sphinx XL. I am trying to make them even higher, like 10-15cm higher, with thicker alu.
    2. Cgrz
      Cgrz
      so im wondering if theres like a list that will say something like... parts you will need to convert Cbeam to Sphinx.. m5x25mm #qt-12
    3. wiremonkey
      wiremonkey
      Hey Kyo, have you done grbl acceleration optimization on your sphinx machine? I built pretty much the same machine and am about to start tweaking, but thought I'd check with you before recreating the wheel. I saw somewhere that people had acceleration XY set as high as 600! Not sure I'd go that far, but wanted to know if you found good settings for speed vs reliability.
      Thank you!
      Tyler
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        I will go over my old notes and see if I can find the settings I was using on my original Sphinx machine ( running grbl ) I had my acceleration set quite high from what I recall, then scaled back to a safe margin to prevent losing steps.
        Nov 22, 2018
      2. wiremonkey
        wiremonkey
        Hi Kyo,
        Thanks for getting back to me. I went from sub 100 acceleration to all at 250 and man what a difference! I'm easily doing the same jobs in 30% of the time! Seriously, it's like having a different machine! And it's been rock solid in terms of not losing steps too.
        Let me know if you were pushing beyond 250 and if so, what was your top acceleration before you started losing steps.
        Nov 22, 2018
    4. Kyo
      Kyo
      Back in the shop ! Gearing up for a new build :)
      1. Rick 2.0 and MaryD like this.
    5. freon12
      freon12
      hi kyo i"m new to cnc i built your sphinx as a 2'x3' and i was wondering if you had a wireing diagram using a phoenix controller, i"m not sure how to hook up 2 stepper motors for y axis? thank you for great build, it can be so variable
      1. NeeqOne
        NeeqOne
        Hook the other y-axis motor to the A-axis.
        Jun 26, 2018
      2. freon12
        freon12
        thank you neeqOne, i'm ready to hook up electronics.
        Jun 29, 2018
    6. Eric Marcos Soberano
      Eric Marcos Soberano
      Hello Sir Kyo. I am currently planning to build my first CNC machine. Is there a design that you could recommend that i can incorporate both router and plasma cutter/engraver? I will be using it for my woodworking projects. BTW I am Eric from the Philippines.

      Regards,

      Eric
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Hello Eric,
        The Sphinx would work well for this. You could swap the router mount / spoiler board for a plasma torch mount and water tray as needed.
        May 29, 2018
      2. Eric Marcos Soberano
        Eric Marcos Soberano
        Then Sphinx it is. I will go for it and finalize purchase of parts. Thanks.
        May 29, 2018
        Kyo likes this.
    7. wiremonkey
      wiremonkey
      Hello Kyo. A big shout out and link to your Sphinx project page in my latest video about upgrading the c-beam with steel channel and v-rails. Take a peek and thanks again for your inspiration! https://youtu.be/2QTZa2Ge9A0 (oops, broken link, now it works)
      1. Kyo and MaryD like this.
    8. CharlieShimota
      CharlieShimota
      Hi Kyo, A quick question. When I click on the $H, the Z will move up to the sensor, stop, back off, slowly move towards the switch until it trips and then backs off 3mm. then the X and Y axis's do the same , except they both will only stop at the sensors and back off, then stop. They don't come back to the sensors so I have to run the $H again to make that happen? Any ideas.
    9. CharlieShimota
      CharlieShimota
      Hey Kyo, do you know if there is a proper way to set the anti-backlash nuts. They do come with an adjustable set screw so I searched the forums and didn't find any info, I'm at that point where I'm hoping this is the last time I take everything apart, and if there is some thing I should address with the nut blocks now would be an opportune time to take care of it. Thanks again...
      1. MaryD
        MaryD
        Feb 13, 2018
        Kyo likes this.
    10. CharlieShimota
      CharlieShimota
      Oops, I misread your post and saw nema 34 as nema 23. Do you think the Canare Star Quad will handle the high-torque 23's?
    11. CharlieShimota
      CharlieShimota
      Oh yeah! the cable I have is also Canare, L-4E6S star quad. I got it form Redco.com for .50/ft and they have a nice color selection. Now you've got me worried because I'm using the high-torque nema's also. Is there a way to figure the actual wire gauge of stranded wire and how would I find the current rating for this cable? Thanks
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        That is a great price on the cable. You can measure the conductor ( a single wire without pvc sheath ) to discover the awg size. Mine measured in a range of 0.58mm - 0.66mm depending on how tight I had my calipers. That is roughly 23 / 22awg. Here is a chart you can use to look up awg sizing and amp rating. The Openbuilds HT 23 motors are 3amp motors. https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
        Jan 29, 2018
        CharlieShimota likes this.
    12. CharlieShimota
      CharlieShimota
      Hey Kyo, I was wondering if you have ever heard of anyone using microphone cable for the steppers and limit switches, I have some left over after making some speaker cables. It's a 4 conductor stranded 21 gauge wire with braided shielding and the manufacturer claims it's ideal for bending (as in coiling up mic cables). I have a photo but can't find a way to upload it in this post.
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Yeah, I just ordered some Canare Star Quad http://amzn.to/2Brp5dY to use on a machine I am building. It was sold as 21awg but measures closer to a 22-23awg. Should be fine for my limits and x,y stepper but will be pushing it on the 6A nema 34 I have :) The high strand count is a plus for our use. Keep in mind the current rating of the cable.
        Jan 24, 2018
        CharlieShimota likes this.
    13. justin hunt
      justin hunt
      Whats up kyo building a sphinx and was wonder if u had dimensions for the plates needed for xy and z or possible them in an svg format?
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Hello Justin, You can use the free cross platform software Inkscape to get svg files from the posted dxf files. Don't forget to post up your build.
        Jan 24, 2018
        justin hunt likes this.
    14. Seth Maltais
      Seth Maltais
      New to the forum. Working on a sphinx now. I have noticed that when using the extreme v wheels and mini v wheels with the c beam extrusion I have to use 2 1mm spacers on the mini v wheels to maintain alignment with the v grooves. The full size wheels on the out side of the c beam only need 1 1mm spacer while the inner mini v wheels need 2 1mm spacers along with the 6mm spacers. Any ideas as to why?
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Nov 28, 2017
        MaryD likes this.
    15. blue25
      blue25
      Hi Kyo. I want to build your Sphinx C Bream CNC with working area 120cm x 60cm . But I don't know how much is length I need to cut my C-Beam for the X & Y Axis , also the V Slot for the base. Need your advice :)
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        A 1m x 1m build would get you very close to this and only requires you to double each length. To get 1.2m you would need a 1.5m y-axis and lead screw availability is then a concern.
        Nov 7, 2017
      2. blue25
        blue25
        Hi, thanks for your reply. For 1M x 1M C beam, what is the machine working area?
        Nov 7, 2017
      3. blue25
        blue25
        Because the availability for C Beam in my country is low.
        Nov 7, 2017
    16. Gonçalo martins
      Gonçalo martins
      Sorry to be bothering you,
      But I have a problem with my cnc that I can not solve,
      Works fine when I work with Gcode sender manually on the various axes, however, when I submit a G code project, the x, y, and y advances are uncontrollable

      https://youtu.be/KIOs46BwSDI
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Hello Goncalo,
        This would be a perfect question to post to the forum at large. I have not used Gcode sender in a while. Go ahead and start a new thread, and if possible post up the Gcode file that is giving you problems so it can be tested / reviewed. From the video it appears to be a work position or homing issue.
        Jul 7, 2017
        MaryD likes this.
    17. Hue
      Hue
      Hi Kyo

      I already have the sphinx plates, but confused over the lead screw lengths. If I have 500mm c beams the parts list says 500mm leads screws but the PDF of the build says 530mm. I think I need the longer ones, but could you or any one else please confirm I am thinking right.

      Hue
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Hello Hue,
        Go ahead and order the 500mm Long lead screw from the parts store. The Leadscrew will come in at a measured length of 540mm.. It can be trimmed down to 530mm for a flush install or left at 540mm if you wanted to install some Jog knobs. Also available from the Openbuilds Part store.
        Jun 27, 2017
        Hue likes this.
      2. Hue
        Hue
        Thank you
        Jun 28, 2017
    18. Mohammad Kokash
      Mohammad Kokash
      i check all the problem from the driver
      thank
    19. Mohammad Kokash
      Mohammad Kokash
      hi Kyo
      i all redy build my cnc depend on your design C-beam Sphinx and order the y and x plate from ebay i finish build it using arduino cnc shield its works fine but missing steps in y and the both sides are warb after finish the carve
      Can you please advise me?
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Hello Kokash,
        I would first check driver setting and grbl setting all have the same micro stepping. (what drivers are you using?) The next item I would check is drag or rough / tightness on the Y-axis side that is loosing steps. Are they staying in sync? The nut block or wheels may be to tight. You will also want to double check wiring and connections to make sure you do not have any loose wires or shorts.
        Jun 15, 2017
    20. wiremonkey
      wiremonkey
      Hi Kyo, I'm going to start building a modified Sphinx on Friday, all the parts should be here, and want to use your manual, but I find the font difficult to read. Would you mind giving me a version that I can edit and change the font? These tired old eyes need a plain font. Thanks, Tyler
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Awesome, I look forward to seeing your build. I will see if I can find the Raw files for the manual ( easy to change font and recreate pdf). I believe I have deleted them already but will check my back up drive to be sure.
        Apr 19, 2017
        wiremonkey likes this.
    21. wiremonkey
      wiremonkey
      Kyo, who can I consult with regarding a slightly modified version of your Sphinx: taller gantries, mount Z stepper on top of Z axis (no belt) and approximately 400mm x 400mm real work area? I'm not sure, for example, the best way to solidly connect the Z stepper to the screw. Great design and I can't wait to place the order and start milling! Thanks, Tyler
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Hello Tyler, The members here on Openbuilds are a great resource to consult with regarding builds and build modifications. To mount the Z-axis stepper directly you will need a coupler and two aluminum spacers. To get 400mm x 400mm work area. Add roughly 100-125mm to each C-beam and lead screw length.
        Apr 11, 2017
        wiremonkey likes this.
      2. wiremonkey
        wiremonkey
        I've decided to build a 700mm wide (X axis) by 620mm (footprint) Sphinx. I figure that it's better to have the width in case I want to do longer pieces. I'll call it the KYO 700! Thanks again for all your hard work on this. I'm buying the taller gantry from Chris and it should all come together in a week or two as parts roll in. I'm very excited, my first CNC.
        Apr 12, 2017
      3. wiremonkey
        wiremonkey
        You should note that Chris is also making a wider C-beam end plate that has 4 mounting holes for the motor. I personally hate the idea of it hanging off of 2. It just doesn't look right. Ha!
        Apr 12, 2017
    22. ashish B
      ashish B
      Hello Sir. I see that you have plates on sale at ebay. If I were to follow your cutom build thread, are those the only customized parts I need to buy to start buiding ? Do you also offer complete kit minus electrical/electronics ?
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Hello Ashish,
        The Ebay plate sets while my design are made by @Chris Laidlaw not myself and are indeed the only custom parts required for a Sphinx build. The rest of the components are off the shelf OpenBuilds components.
        Feb 21, 2017
      2. ashish B
        ashish B
        Thank you . Very encouraged after watching video. This will be my first time build anything this scale even though I build rc helicopters, this is many folds involved
        Feb 21, 2017
    23. markinwi
      markinwi
      Part2 Reading about your builds, you know quite a bit about this stuff, me, I'm just getting started. Could you take about few minutes post systems you have put together that worked well together . Thanks, Mark.
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Oct 27, 2016
    24. markinwi
      markinwi
    25. Jaden_05
      Jaden_05
      Kyo, I am working on my own Sphinx build. I ordered the majority of the parts from the openbuildstore and I am looking at making the plates myself. For 20 buck tuition and associated lab fees I have access to the machine shop at the local community college. My intention is to use their equipment to make the associated plates. Since the cost would be for materials only what thickness would you make the plates?
      1. Mark Carew likes this.
      2. Kyo
        Kyo
        Nice, What a great way to use the resources available to your advantage. I look forward to seeing your build. The plates all use 1/4" (6.35mm) aluminum.
        Sep 15, 2016
    26. Eric Filomeno
      Eric Filomeno
      Hi Kyo, I'm planning on building my first machine and I think your C-beam Sphinx would be the perfect first time project. Thanks for providing all the info on how to do this! My question is, are you going to have a plate set available for purchase?

      thanks again!,
      -Eric
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Hello Eric, Yes I will be offering the plate sets in the future. As of now several guys are already making them. I can recommend Chris's plates he does a great job and already has them on ebay just search for "C-beam Sphinx". I look forward to seeing your build don't forget to post it up on the forums.
        Aug 4, 2016
    27. Astorflix
      Astorflix
      Hi Kyo,

      Would you mind sharing the stl. file for the Delta Six Makerslide corner brackets?

      Regards
      Stefan
      1. Kyo
        Kyo
        Sure, let me dig through my files and get it for you.. I will upload it to the main Delta Six page. If it needs any changes let me know and I can update it to suit as well..
        Mar 27, 2016
  • Loading...
  • Loading...
  • About

    Home Page:
    https://www.patiencecorner.org/
    Location:
    WA, U.S.A
    Occupation:
    Content Creator
    YouTuber, Builder, Maker, Designer! With a focus on opensource and diy I create, build and learn.

    Follow me on Social Media:
  • Loading...
  • loading...
  • Loading...
  • Loading...
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice