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TrueUP Glide

Discussion in '3D printers' started by Keith Davis, Sep 9, 2016.

  1. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Correct. The OpenBuilds Universal build plate will work, but the wheel holes and wire routing holes will still need to be drilled. I use a second MK3 so both sides up on the build plate and heat bed are matching aluminum, and to eliminate all of the extra holes already in the Universal build plate. Purely cosmetic. Your choice.
     
  2. Robert Kirkpatrick

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    Just read on my laser build that I need to print the parts in PETG. I assume this printer can manage that? ;)
     
  3. SatMike

    SatMike New
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    I've started to put together the various orders for parts and needed clarification on the MK8. It should be 1.75mm, correct?

    As for the 3d printed components I am trying to cut down my initial costs and only have printed the items absolutely necessary to complete the build. I figure things like the MKS enclosure, PSU hanger/cap and print fan can all be printed by me after assembly is complete. I understand this may require some disassembly and extra work, but I figured it would be a good way to cut down cost while putting the new printer to good use. Are there any reasons why this plan would not work, or are there any other components that could be printed later as well?
     
  4. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Yes. You will need to use an extruder barrel with NO PTFE liner as PETG's print temp is higher that PTFE's.
    Probably the best PETG writeup I've seen
    Print Settings for eSUN PETG: eSUN Solid Black Filament -- by Jules -
     
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  5. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    1.75mm = correct
    Unless you want to rest them on the table, the MKS-mount will be necessary, the PSU-hanger will be necessary. The MKS top, bottom and sides, the PSU cap, and print fan are things that can wait. The two Z-tops could also wait (the back side loops that prevent snagging or bending the Z screws).

    Good thinking SatMike!
     
  6. Robert Kirkpatrick

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    @Keith Davis

    I've read somewhere you recommended a certain brand of filament but I can't find it again. Please could you let me know which (in your opinion) is the best? Thanks
     
  7. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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  8. Robert Kirkpatrick

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    Morning. I've emailed the guy above and await a reply, thanks. I've had a good search for the eSun PLA+ and not found any. I did come across this stuff though, what you think......

    PLA Plus+ 1.75 mm 3D Printer Filament

    Cheaper here....

    rigid.ink - The Best, Pure PLA Plus Filament for 3D Printers and Pens *0.03mm+/- Tolerance*(1.75mm - 1KG, White) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AY73MGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZUGEyb54XB5EH
     
  9. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Looks good. I suspect the formula for Pro (Plus) PLA is not a trade secret. And, eSun may be common manufacturers under different brand names. This looks very similar.

    The 220C plus temps are what eSun suggests too, but I print it at 205 at 100mm/sec. Hotter produces rough walls like I see in lots of their pics on rigid.ink/collections/all/products/pla-plus?variant=14113460999

    As for the sticky problem, I suggest use hair spray, then raise the nozzle a bit with 0.4 first layer. If necessary, a water-soluble cellulosic hair spray will allow removal of a stuck part by putting it under hot tap water.
     
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  10. Christian Setla

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    Just a heads up, the Amazon link is for the regular PLA and the first link is to Rigid.ink's PLA+ page. Rigid.ink makes both PLA and PLA+.
     
  11. Robert Kirkpatrick

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    Thanks but I've checked the link again and it says PLA plus in the title....
     
  12. Christian Setla

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    Oops... See... that's my problem, I don't READ everything, I skim. I now see that it is actually Rigid.Ink selling the filament on Amazon which explains why I thought it was a fast copy-paste job. The title I see here in Canada is: rigid.ink - The Best, Pure PLA Plus Filament for 3D Printers and Pens *0.03mm+/- Tolerance*(1.75mm - 1KG, White) with no reference to the PLUS bit, but I see in the body of the text that they refer to the PLUS version AND they include the product reference number so you are likely correct.

    I just wanted to make sure you knew that Rigid.Ink had both PLA and PLA PLUS products. In the Canadian Amazon store, there are lots of sellers trying to pull one over the eyes of the buyer and one needs to be careful ordering that way. In your case, indeed it looks good.
     
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  13. Christian Setla

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    As for what I mean about the Canadian Amazon, Aqua Net is often suggested as a build plate spray. Aqua Net is very low cost and available everywhere inside the lower 48 US states, not sold in Canada, but if I go on Amazon.ca I can get it from $11.xx a can ( I know I just sent a shiver down Keith's spine as I'm pretty sure he could get close to 5 cans for that price) and it goes all the way to this: Aqua Net Extra Super Hold Professional Hair Spray Unscented 11 ounces by Aqua Net: Amazon.ca: Beauty
     
  14. SatMike

    SatMike New
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    I've completed parts orders with Robotdigg, Openbuilds and with a local guy through Makexyz for the 3d printed parts. I still have the amazon order to place, but it looks like my total cost, including shipping is going to hover right around the $400 range.

    As for the bed leveling springs, Century Spring requires a purchase of $50 dollars and I was unable to find an exact duplicate elsewhere. I was thinking about picking up this - Swordfish 32030 Oxide Finish Steel Compression Spring Assortment, Black, 114 Peice - - Amazon.com
     
  15. timwilde

    timwilde New
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    Any info on what the specs of the springs themselves? Almost 90% of the links in the BOM dont work for me....I'm attributing that largely to my reader and security software on my computer...everything else seems to have some sort of spec or name that allows me to find the specific item in the shop linked, the springs...nothing. And Century Spring's site isnt the most user friendly.

    Any specific spring resistance/strength and size?
     
  16. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Perfect bed springs USA shipping only
    10pcs Spring for 3D Printer Extruder Heated Bed For Ultimaker Makerbot | eBay
    Same springs China (world shipping)
    Extruder 3D Printer Supporting Spring 12PCS Z-axis Platform Makerbot Ultimaker | eBay

    The wire diameter: 0.6mm
    Inner diameter: 4.5mm
    Outside diameter : 5.7mm
    Height: 10mm
    Circle number: 6
     
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  17. Christian Setla

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    [​IMG]

    I've got my springs but.... this seller won't ship to Canada.....
     
  18. Christian Setla

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    Thanks JustinTime, I have what I need, I was just pointing out that even the Chinese sometimes filter out Canada in their "ships worldwide" statements.
     
  19. timwilde

    timwilde New
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    That's the stuff a maker needs! :D

    I have 2 100ft spools of 22awg stainless steel wire just laying around ;) I can hand wrap the spring with that information.

    For those inclined, 22awg = 0.6mm
    Once wrapped, you'll want to anneal it, but dont overheat it. A torch going through the spring a few passes without letting it get to a glowing hot and letting it air cool should do it. The annealing will help it keep it's shape. If you overheat, it will become brittle. If you dont want to wait for shipping or find prices unreasonable :)
     
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  20. Makerparts

    Makerparts Well-Known
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    Nice Build!
     
  21. runninfarmer

    runninfarmer Well-Known
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    Question for you Keith, if I'm using a RAMPs board and Repetier firmware, will I'll be able to full step on z and do 1/16th microstepping on X and Y? Reason I ask is that in the firmware I have it set to 1/16th microstepping and didn't know if you could do mixed full/micro steeping on RAMPs/repetier combo.
     
  22. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    I'm not familiar with Repetier firmware. In Marlin each motor has a number of "steps per mm". For example:
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,3200,170}
    would be 1/16 for all 4 motors (XYZE)
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,200,170} // 3200 / 16 = 200
    would be 1/16,1/16,full,1/16
    The way I interpret that is the firmware sends 80 "moves" and the jumpers and driver combo translate that into steps or microsteps.
    (example: GT2 20T=40mm per motor rev. 200 step motor @ 1/16=3200 microsteps per rev. 40/3200=0.0125. 0.0125x80=1mm)
    In short, the Marlin firmware is totally unaware if the moves it sends results in full steps, microsteps, or how many.

    RAMPS, like any board, determines microstepping by the jumper arrangement and driver used.

    If I'm reading you correctly, Repetier has only one universal step setting for all 4 motors?
     
  23. runninfarmer

    runninfarmer Well-Known
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    Seemed like it in past versions of my firmware it had a general micro stepping setting, but I'm not seeing it now. So I must be able to just take out the jumpers and set the steps to 200. I may try it, but how loud does your z-axis sound? Also, would there be a torque gain going to full steps?
     
  24. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Sound increase while printing is negligible because you're only moving a few steps per layer, and only on layer changes. But layer changes are abrupt! If, perhaps, you use Lift Z on Retraction, it can be annoying. But while dropping to the bed from a 50 or 100mm height, it's a noticeable sound increase.

    Microstepping is accomplished by incremental current, so yes, lower or no microsteps increases torque, full steps by quite a bit. But I use a Nema 17 40mm height 59 oz.in. motor on Z with no problems even at 1/6 microsteps so torque on Z is not a factor.

    Keep in mind that many high end printers ($1K) are running their extruder motors at 1/8 microsteps to increase torque & no one complains about the sound. Because 1/8 or full steps deliver higher torque per pulse, the voltage can be reduced at the pots, and that's the main source of motor "whine".

    I'm not totally sold on using full steps on Z. I'm working on a Make2 version of the OneZ (a Kit) right now and I'm going to do a lot more testing on this idea.....
     
  25. SugarJ

    SugarJ Well-Known
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    @Keith Davis You mentioned a while back you were going to redo a couple of the larger parts so they could be made on a standard 200x200mm heatbed. Were you able to get around to this? I'd love to have a go at remaking my Chinese 2020 frame reprap into a TrueUp Glide. It's a very well designed build.
     
  26. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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  27. SugarJ

    SugarJ Well-Known
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    Thank you, that's awesome! I can print out parts while I'm waiting for other parts to come from different parts of the world. :)
     
  28. wickedweasel

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    Keith, nice build. I am currently getting the parts together to build it.
    The BOM states 2 GT2 16 teeth 5mmID, where you need 3 of these.I think you overlooked it in the X-mount assembly instructions/BOM and was therefore missed from the overall BOM.
     
  29. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    Right you are. Fixed the master BOM and TrueUp Glide Mount X Assembly BOM.
     
  30. Keith Davis

    Keith Davis Veteran
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    In other words, you are getting 1mm height per revolution. I get that same with the 1.25 pitch using a 16 tooth on the motor and 20 tooth on the 8mm screws. At 1mm per revolution, a 200 step motor gets 0.005 per full step - or 0.01 per two steps.

    So, as long as layers are in 0.01 increments (0.23, 0.24, etc) you are landing on full step positions per layer change. Considering that the Z screw gearing already guarantees 0.005 accuracy per step it doesn't matter if you use microstepping or not as far as accuracy goes (microstepping affects motion, not accuracy). But, microstepping decreases motor torque, 1/8 stronger than 1/16, so I've went to 1/8 microstepping on Z. (I use 1/8 on extruder too, it runs cooler than at 1/16)

    Really appreciate that AliExpress link!! Good prices. Why did you get the 2mm pitch and then gear it down 2:1, when a 1mm pitch would have needed no gearing? Even without the gearing, even a 56 oz.in. motor has plenty of torque for both screws. (I use a 56 oz.in. on two 6mm 1 pitch screws on the OneZ). And, what are you using for the NUT on that 8mm x 2mm/pitch lead screw??
     

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