This is a Chinese kit I got on ebay from someone in CA.

I need a large build plate without spending 10-20k for a "store" built printer.

This is a Delta build using 1610 ballscrews from China

Portable, high-speed, low-cost advanced multi-tool desktop factory derived from LulzBot Taz and TazMega.

This build will hopefully be 18x18x24 build space using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware. Using NEMA 17 motors and belts to drive the X and Y axis, lead screws for the Z axis. The build plate will be heated with a delrin Y carriage for the glass and heatbed. Z axis motors will be top mounted. Possibly and ATX power supply.

This is a big 609 x 609 x 914 3d pritner with exchangable hot ends and extruders.

The idea here is to build a nice large delta bot from the parts ground on the one builds part store. Other parts that are sources out side of this will be detailed. I have a simple BOM I started that I will upload later.

sparkcube V1.1XL edit V-slot mini v linear

Currently completely imaginary

This is my own modified version of the D-Bot printer. I wanted to spec this printer to be able to print exotic materials at high accuracy with little to no compromises and maximum reliability.

HE3D K200 kit build

I want to have a printer to support senior projects. Also working on supporting 3D printing needs in the local community.

A DIY 3D printer. At beginning made from aluminium profiles, aluminium sheet and wood :)

How to modularize the 3D Systems Cube 3 extruder nozzle.

Modified Tevo

A brief write up of the making of the FLSUN Delta Kit. This kit is based on an open source design. I had a need for a 3D printer without the desire to dive into another project, so a kit was the obvious way to go. I already have a delta printer in the works and so this is more of a stop gap in the interim.

Probably cheapest DIY build youl see.

Toying around a concept. Inputs are welcome on whether to use lead screw or belt drive. My lead screw will be single start 500 mm lenght, 2 mm pitch and 2 mm lead. Nema 17 motors will be used. All veterans, suggestions please.

My original Tevo Tarantula kit was ok..... I had issues with the X gantry staying level. I got rid of the wheels and replaced them with linear block bearings. I still had some issues with the X gantry. I swapped out the plastic parts with aluminum which was much better. Still not what I want yet

Just now in the planning phase of my build. Waiting for some parts to come in to see what I am going to build off of. Print area going to be close to 300x300x350. Trying to decide if I want it enclosed. I do want to print ABS... so probably so.

Components- RAMPS, running marlin, Nema 17, All metal extruder, 600mm lead screws, 600mm 2020 aluminum extrusions, 12v 30a power supply, 12v LED strip, Typical endstops, 600mm 8mm linear rods, Bearing block for 8mm bearings, Openbuilds plates, wheels, and bearings, 500x500mm borosilicate glass plate

Make a vinyl burrito ENCLOSURE for your TEVO LITTLE MONSTER for < $30 (<$20 if you don't have your vinyl shipped!)

Cheap, experimental Modification to Tevo Little Monster's bowden system for the extruder

This is a at home built 1000mm x 1000mm x 1000mm 3d printer. It uses mainly parts from OpenBuild Parts and is very simple to build. The only thing that was custom was the build plate which was designed by myself and tooled at a local machine shop.

Super tall 3D printer. All lead screw design.

Started with a Rigidbot Big Added a single flat glass bed Used a Smoothieboard clone driving DRV8825

So I thought I would make the Leon van den Beukel version three 3D printed CNC Machine, it is the third incarnation so you would expect a relatively bug-free CNC Machine with a strong foundation.

This is the build of a cartesian 3d printer made of an old Anet and Geeeteck, some 2020 alu profil and linear rail. Powered by a Rumba with a Nextion screen. It should be modular and accept dual Extrusion and laser engraving.

This build will use 1/2 inch copper water pipe as the primary material for all structural parts. As of now my intent is a cartesian design drawing from a few popular printers. I'm going to use the least amount of printed parts as possible and locally source as much as I can. I have built an EMT-conduit core-xy printer in the past and while it worked out fine, I feel copper is easier to work, manufactured with more precision, still reasonably inexpensive and will look super cool!

I decided to start designing this printer, this will be my solution for a more rugged printer that you can use as workhorses...